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Awesome show. Just found out about it.
Great Show lots of good tips. 2010 was my first year shooting competition. I shot IDPA all year and classified as a Sharpshooter and then after 3 matches took second place in the IL state match and bumped to Expert class. Thought i was pretty good until I shot my first USPSA matches over the winter and classified as a C shooter lol. I would like to see a segment on how USPSA scores stages. I dont understand all the hit factor vs time, penalties, procedurals, mikes, etc..
Hey guys! Awesome show. It really helps new shooters like myself.
I’m also from the Greater Seattle area as you guys pointed out, and was wondering how to get involved in competition shooting. I went to Renton Fish and Game last week and had a great first experience, the guys were really nice and welcoming. I looked on their website and saw they have IDPA and IPSC matches every month, the next IPSC being next Saturday. I definitely want to get involved, but have only shot at indoor/outdoor ranges where no drawing & shooting was allowed, much less practicing reloads w/ live rounds or shooting on the move.
How would you guys suggest practicing before going out to a competition? Or should my first competition be my first time with everything?
Thanks a lot!
Hi Seattle_Shooter…thanks for watching the program and the email. All of the USPSA clubs in the NorthWest Section ( http://northwestsection.org/ ) require that all competitors have passed a USPSA Safety Check before they can compete at a match within the section. If you have previous action pistol match experience (i.e. IDPA), you could probably schedule a Safety Check with one of the local clubs and do just fine, however if you haven’t participated in a competition event, I would highly recommend that you take a beginning/intro IPSC (i.e. IPSC101) class before you think about competition. Rick, myself and another instructor teach IPSC101 classes 3 times a year. The first class (March) is full and the next class is scheduled for May. You can follow this website for class announcements:
In terms of practice at a square range, most of them don’t allow you to draw from a holster or perform speed reloads and only use a single target, but if you can put multiple bullseye’s on a single target and then transition from one to another, that would be good multiple transition practice. I would recommend watching all of our videos (particularily the ones on draw/grip and reloads) and then try and practice these techniques in dryfire before you get involved in competition.
IDPA is next on the schedule at Renton, February 19th. USPSA, which will start the 2011 season on the 27th, requires a fairly extensive “safety check” that must be arranged with a club official prior to the match. Go to the Northwest Section (of USPSA) website, contact the club rep from Renton, and see if you can schedule the safety check prior to the match. The safety check will include your demonstrating a safe draw, accurate shots, proper techniques for moving, reloads, etc. If you don’t have any prior experience, you may want to consider the safety check as your starting place, as the limited time available at the IDPA new-shooter orientation is geared toward confirming that you’re ready to compete, rather than including any sort of instruction. We have IDPA practice at Renton on Thursday evenings, when there’s enough light in the evenings, and you may want to consider attending a practice or two before shooting your first match. There is a lot
to absorb at a match, from rules to terminology, to the various techniques, and trying to learn it and do it all at once can be a bit daunting. I’d recommend that you build at least a little experience with the basic techniques of drawing, safe movement, reloads, etc., before your first match. If you’d like to show up to Saturday’s match (19th) as an observer, you are welcome to shadow me, and I’ll explain as much of what’s going on as I can. Even if you don’t shoot, consider attending the 8:00AM new-shooter orientation, as it contains a lot of information about safety, techniques, and what’s expected of competitors.
Why no mention of the M&P on the Production/SSP episode?
The M&P is very popular for Production and SSP, the only reason we didn’t dive into the gun is because we were not able to get one in time for the episode.
Great videos guys. I watched the whole series today while it snowed outside.
Now that the Chicago handgun ban has been overturned, I’m gearing up to get involved in competition. I’ve read both IDPA and USPSA rulebooks and there’s one set of rules that I think might make a good episode: Movement through a CoF and the order in which you can engage targets.
From what I understand, in IDPA you can’t reload on the move since you must use available cover. It also seems that when you are moving, your finger must be out of the trigger guard. Does this mean that you can’t engage targets while on the move or that if you’re moving while not engaging targets you just need to have your finger out?
Also, I’ve seen videos where people talk about shooting from alternate sides of a bianchi barricade and they suggest engaging targets from the outermost position (leaning far out from cover) first and working in towards the alternate side for efficiency of movement. Does this technique follow or contradict IDPA rules since you wouldn’t be engaging targets as they appear from behind cover?
Lastly, my shooting experience has only been in what Rick calls “bowling alley” style ranges. What are some tips you guys have for engaging targets on the move in order to stay safe and accurate?
Good stuff! Keep it up.
My wife and I would like to get into some competition shooting. Could you or do you plan on doing a “what to expect yor first time” episode?
As soon as the clubs get active(still snowing) we plan on going and pursuing this further.
Great series!! I recently found out about practical shooting and was interested and started searching the web. Ran across your show, and look forward to each new episode. One suggestion as a newcomer. I like learning about the guns you are shooting in the “higher” divisions, but how about an episode dedicated to Production/SSP and the shooter going to his/her first match.
Looking forward to the next episode!!
Hi Jim…thanks for the comments. Actually we have already done an episode on
USPSA Production — IPDA Stock Service Pistol. Check out this link :
We also have two other episodes planned regarding “shooting your first match”.
The first will be on IDPA which should be released “real soon now” and the other
will be on USPSA. Look forward to those soon.
Hi Guys, Congratulations on your nomination for the Gunnie award. Can you elaborate on the concept of following your front sight for shooting accurately and faster. Perhaps a future episode…hint… with drills used to practice that skill…hint…
Thank you again for all of your insight,
As simple as that sounds…it ends up becoming an extremly difficult subject to discuss because after all of these years…my mind see what it needs to see on each and every target…so I can’t really tell you what I’m seeing or how to shoot more accurately or faster because every target is different.
I will tell you this..I’m a BIG fan of Brian Eno’s Practical Shooting Beyond Fundamentals book. Brian talks about what he defines as the 5 different sight focus types and how to apply them. There is a short synopsis of the discussion here: http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/may96vision.html
Having said that…I’ve learned to shoot with both eyes open and I’ve also adopted a shooting style where I’m looking THRU the sights..not at them. My actual focal point is probably about 4 to 5 feet in front of the gun. Doing this I can see the sights and target with equal clarity (note I didn’t say they are both clear because that would be impossible. They are both “clear enough”). Depending on the difficulty of the shot..I may decrease the vision in my weak eye (or close it entirely for a 50 yard or precision shot). My mind basically takes care of all of this for me…and thats why I can’t really explain it.
You want to see what you need to see on each shot and for target transitions SNAP your eyes to the next target as soon as possible. As soon as you’ve called your shot (another advanced technique that you need to learn) on the last target….SNAP your eyes to the next target and wait for your sights to catch up…then as SOON as you’ve confirmed that the sights are where they need to be…break the shot. You don’t need to wait around for the sight picture to improve…because it won’t. If the shot is a difficult one…you may find that you track the front sight all the way through recoil (a type 4 sight focus definiton according to Brian)…..if its an easier shot (a type 3 sight focus according to Brian)…all your looking for is the sight to come back into the rear notch and then break the shot again as soon as you confirm its where it needs to be.
Does this all sound a bit Zen? There’s a reason for that…your subconscious does all of your shooting for you. If you try and override that with your conscious thought or think your way through it, your shooting will suffer. You need to trust and have faith that your mind will take control of the shooting for you and let it happen. As long as you “get in the way” of it doing that, you will be hindering your shooting performance.
In terms of drills. Type 2 focus can be practiced through Bill Drills. Type 4 focus can be practiced using a plate rack…type 5 focus can be practiced shooting prone at 50 yards….type 3 is nearly everything else that you shoot….and type 1 is like shooting with your eyes shut…were you literally “feel” the shot to the target through body index (type 1 is for nearly point contact distance shooting).
Hope that helps…and I hope I haven’t confused you too much. If you could crawl into my head and see what I see…that would probably answer all your questions..but my heads not big enough for the two of us.
Hey guys love your show. FYI you do not need a third host, you two are just fine without the Top Shot guy…….. Oh and much better off without him.
Can you have a video on malfunction types and how to trouble shoot and dryfire. ie mag not fully seated, stove pipe, and double chambered. Some people just give up and not finish a stage becaues of the third type. seems unnatural to lock the slide, strip the mag, rack rack rack and reload.
thanks appreciate it.
That’s a great idea Duane. We will definitely do that!
Just finished watching the reloading videos. I’m really interested in reloading. I have a .40 Glock 23 with a factory barrel. A couple of questions: First you did not go over OAL. I’ve read on the forums on load recipes mentioning this. What’s to little or too much OAL? Second, I’ve heard that standard glock barrels are loose and that the brass becomes more bulged than normal ( when compared to bulging on other guns). I was told to get an under sized die for this like the EGW undersized die. I guess my choice is to either get a match barrel for the glock or get this undersized die for the bulge. what do you guys think?
Duane – Overall Length (OAL) varies with bullet shape, and sometimes with bullet weight. Published maximum OALs are rarely the “best” length for any particular load, and loading shorter than recommended for a given bullet can raise chamber pressures to a dangerous level, and even if it were safe, length also has an affect on reliable function. Use data specific to your chosen bullet, or at least data for a bullet of the same shape and weight. Even then, there can be variables that must be taken into account. I’ve been loading 200gr roundnose bullets in .45 Auto for many years, and while I’ve had excellent results loading some to 1.265″ OAL, others won’t fit in the chamber loaded longer than 1.220″ (max length for .45 Auto is 1.275″).
Glocks, especially those chambered in .40 S&W can be hard on brass, and the polygonal rifling is incompatible with plain lead bullets; some people address both issues by replacing the factory barrel with an aftermarket version with tighter chamber specs and conventional rifling.
In addition to my above post. I’ve also heard about using a competition seating die such as Redding. Why do some peeps change dies on the Dillon. I believe in K.I.S.S.
I’ve never messed with any “special” dies for sizing, seating, or crimping, so don’t know really know what people are trying to accomplish. I’ve never had any issues with standard die sets from RCBS, Lee, Lyman or Dillon.
I like your blue range bag. I need something bigger for up to three pistols. What brand and model were you sporting in episode 9 – range bags?
You and Rick have me nuts for practical shooting. I have been out every week practicing in the pits and searching for matches around Cincinnati, OH since finding your video podcast.
I have a CED range bag. They come in different colors and to the best of my knowledge, only one size. It has two internal pockets (and one included pistol pouch but you could get another) for pistols but you could easily throw in a third gun down the middle.
While I understand your desire to avoid ejector damage and premature slide lock (magazine not empty) by disabling the STI slide lock, I fail to see the tactical advantage for anyone to perform this modification if their pistol was not susceptible to damage as on your STI EDGE. Will you elaborate on the subject? Do you count shots before reloading or plan tactical reloads?
I have been reading a lot about the pros and cons of moly coated, cast lead bullets. There does not seem to be sound science behind either opinion. The only conclusion shared between the two camps is that barrel heating is reduced. I do not see much (15%) price break in shooting moly over bulk rates for FMJ. What do you experience cleaning the moly buildup from your .40 S&W barrel?
I found the CED Professional Range Bag online in a Deluxe version and it is nominally larger than the standard with a few more bells and whistles.
Well I don’t know what else I can tell you about disabling the slide lock on a S_I wide body 2011 pistol. My gun and numerous others with competition followers which increase capacity by one round will prematurely lock the slide back with one or two rounds left in the magazine. No discussion about tactical advantage. It is what it is. I don’t count shots and neither should anyone in fact if you are counting shots then that means your thinking while shooting and that is probably THE worst thing you can do while shooting is think. Regarding “tactical advantage”, you completely lost me on that one. Both USPSA and IDPA are games and neither will teach you anything about tactics and you shouldn’t compare what is done in competition with what you would do or use to defend your life.
I plan my reloads around the course of fire and program in a couple extra rounds as a margin of error. My mags hold 20 rounds + 1 in the barrel so I won’t go much more than 18 rounds before reloading unless I know there is virtually no way I’ll have to fire any extra rounds and then I may go to 20 before I reload.
I shoot moly for the simple reason that it costs less and results in less barrel wear compared to a FMJ bullet. I’m seeing a price difference of about 30% using Moly (Bear Creek) compared to FMJ (Montana Gold).
I picked up some Bear Creek, moly 45s and they shot as you explained; clean barrel. Your reco for Clays was spot on. The recoil was noticeably softer than my usual dose of 231. I did not get a chance to chrono the new load yet, but according to published data it will make major.
I enjoyed your explanation of the USPSA stages this week. I looked at the 2011 Northwest Challenge diagrams of the stages you were walking through in the video. Is that software available that is used to make the PDF diagrams?
I am looking forward to Rick’s walkthrough of IDPA COFs.
Hi Larry. Glad you liked the Clays/moly combination. Yes it is super soft. I’ve played with different powders and Clays always seems to be the softest.
For IPSC stage designs, I use a PowerPoint template that you can download from this location: http://www.stageexchange.com/Stage%20Template.zip
To make the 3-D like diagrams, some people use google sketch up. From what I understand, the learning curve is kinda steep but once you learn it, it’s pretty fast. I’ve never used it so I don’t have any personal experience with it.
Google’s Sketchup is a great tool for making 3D stage designs. I’ve used it a lot and like Steve said, the initial learning curve is tough but after that, I can make a new stage in about 10-15mins. You can d/l it from here : http://sketchup.google.com/, there are also a ton of 3d objects available at the 3D Warehouse : http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/
also, for USPSA, someone made an excellent template that you can start with here : http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=483e9610e173e98e57bb931f79cd9725&prevstart=0
Hope that helps!
Love the shows. Do you plan doing anything for other disciplines (ie 1920, WA1500, Service Pistol?). Shooting techniques vary with the type of discipline and I would be interested in seeing something on techniques:
- shooting multiples (6 shots in 4 seconds – Service Pistol at 10yrds)
- shooting unsighted
- shooting positions – seated, kneeling, prone – variations for body shape and age (often we just see the ‘proper’ way for the fit/thin build rather than for the older more portly build)
David – I don’t know that we’re going to expand into the “bullseye” pistol sports, but we have discussed unsighted fire and shooting positions in previous episodes. We could certainly do another round of demos for those who are not young or fit enough to dive to the ground for prone. For most people, getting up is more of a challenge than getting down, so we’ll try to cover both.
Steve & Rick – Great show! It makes me love the shooting sports even more. You guys have confirmed or modified my understanding on many detailed shooting and gun related issues. Keep up the tech talk!
… and CALEB!
Hey guys, I’m in the running for a contest to win nothing for proposing a name for the opposite of sandbagging in cyclocross racing. I compete in that, but nothing pisto (yet?). I suggested grandbagging; which I first heard on your show.
That’s awesome btw did they take it?
Hi Steve and Caleb,
Under “Episode 47 – Plastic Toy Guns”, Caleb states that he got tired of “constantly having to change parts” to keep the 1911 platform running.
Since I shoot USPSA S.S. (but am not near the experience level of Rick, Steve, or Caleb) I have to ask: Is Caleb saying categorically that 1911′s are delicate, and that they break far more readily than most other weapons? Are 1911′s now considered to be the Hi-Point of competition pistols?
I really would seriously like to know.
Also, I never hear on the PowerFactorShow that the low cost Taurus PT1911 (in my case, the 9mm) is mentioned; what makes the Taurus not “competition ready”?
Hi Cotter…well it appears that Caleb is not a fan of the 1911…as much as Rick is not a fan of “plastic guns”….me, I like both so it seems I’m the only person you can trust.
I’ve owned numerous 1911′s and Glock 19′s and can’t say that I’ve had significant issues with any of them enough to comment negatively about it…so no, I would not say that 1911′s are fragile…far from it. Regarding Taurus (or is that Tauri???) my only experience with the brand was from years ago with a 92fs which worked fine but I didn’t put the number of rounds through it as I have my 1911′s or Glocks (that 92fs was “pre enthusist” days). I’ve heard comments from owners on the Gun Rights Radio Network of problems with Taurus guns…they work OK at first and then things start happening requiring a trip back to the ranch so to speak. I think there are other better options out there for 1911′s. Go watch the episode dedicated to the 1911 gun for suggestions.
The problem I have with 1911s is that if I buy one off the shelf for competition, it’s quite likely that I’m going to have to replace most if not all of the internal parts with aftermarket parts of a higher quality. It’s not that I don’t like 1911s, it’s that I get tired of messing around with the gun constantly and tweaking it. It’s kind of like having an old muscle car where you have to constantly baby the car to keep it running in tip top shape.
I also tend to tinker with my Glocks too, but that’s another story.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Caleb and Steve for the great answers, much appreciated!
PS: And sorry, I very much had meant to include RICK, of course, in my question (I was late heading out for work); but it’s probably just as well, since Rick is undoubtedly pretty ashamed of himself about now for being on any show that is associated with plastic guns…
Cotter – Yeah, I felt sort of soiled after the plastic gun episode, but it washed right off with brake cleaner (which you should keep away from plastic guns). Other than two broken extractors and a broken firing pin, I haven’t had much in the way of parts issues in fifteen years of shooting 1911s; I’ve replaced lots of parts due to changing preferences, but have broken few. I borrowed a Glock 20, and the guide rod broke after fifty rounds. Maybe it’s a karmic thing.
I just noticed that the Donate button on the left is powered by PayPal. Considering how anti-gun eBay/PayPal is, is this really the payment processor for the show and website?
Hey Ants, it’s unfortunate that PayPal does not support our hobby but currently there isn’t a more robust online payment solution for receiving donations that’s more widely accepted. Until there is one, we’ll have to continue to use PayPal but we’re definitely open to use other options when there is. thanks!
Yes, unfortunately, PayPal is ubiquitous and easier to setup as compared to Google Checkout.
Just be aware of PayPal Acceptable Use section 2(i): https://cms.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/?cmd=_render-content&content_ID=ua/AcceptableUse_full
On the other hand, the number of gun related items seems to have gone back up on Ebay after the VTech incident. A random sampling seems to show they are payable by PayPal, so Ebay/PayPal must be looking the other way given the current economic environment.
Scoring Comment from an IPSC newbie. I can understand the concept of dividing Points by time BUT, except at the very highest performance levels, there seems to be a problem (as I see it anyway). Reward is given to speed over accuracy (at the lower grades). For example, I fired 61 bullets and scored 61 hits and was 3rd top score of 23 shooters (but I was slowish and placed mid field – hey I’m new to this). Yet shooters scoring 2/3rd my score doing rapid fire and firing a great many more shots than I placed higher than me. Has anyone considered another multiplier – number of shots fired/number of hits? It might promote accuracy over speed in the lower grades and I can’t see such a multiplier hurting the top grade shooters.
David – The scoring is always a balance of speed and accuracy, and those who are doing it the best are going to win, even within a given class. Shooters develop differently, some being very fast but wild, while others start with accuracy as a priority, then building speed over time. I was very much an “accuracy” shooter when I started, often marveling at how I’d shot all As, but then seeing the results would reveal that the extra time I was taking to get every available point was counterproductive. I struggle with it even today, after competiting for fifteen years, as I try to push my speed without causing my technique to fall apart. To improve, you need to pick up your speed while maintaining accuracy, and if the guys who are fast don’t learn to call their shots, you’ll soon be beating them.
Thanks Rick. I am pretty confident that I will be up ther (club level wise) is a relatively short period of time. My ‘concern’ is that without some sort of penalty, what ‘encouragement’ will these spray and pray shooters get to improve their accuracy?
By the way my current cadence averages 1 second per shot (regardless of distance or target type) and I only walk briskly between stations (and will continue to do so until I become a safe practical shooter – Bullseye type shooting has left me with some bad/unsafe habits from a practical perspective that I have to conciously correct)
David – You worry about your speed, and let them worry about accuracy! There used to be a belief that accuracy was first, and speed “would come”, but over the last ten-fifteen years, the consensus has changed, and that shooters who are destined to be great are first lightning fast, and accuracy will develop. It’s hard to teach .12-second shot splits, but it’s possible to teach people to get that speed under control.
Thanks for watching the show! At the risk of causing offense, why should it matter how someone else wants to shoot USPSA? The rules of the game are what they are, where this is a bias placed to a certain extent on speed over accuracy. If you’re more interested in focusing on accuracy, shoot IDPA or Bianchi Cup; those games place a much higher premium on accuracy than speed.
Hi Caleb, I never take offence.
Hey guys, love the show just found it. I’ve been shooting all my life and just started shooting USPSA last year, I have always had problem that I can’t seem to overcome where I am left eye dominant but my right hand is my shooting hand, and I can’t shoot near as well weak hand. Most of the time I can close my left eye and focus on the front sight but sometimes when transitioning to the next target I lose that focus on the front sight and have to close my left eye again. It is costing me speed and accuracy, is there any way I can try to overcome it, or compensate for it?
Hi Daryl. I’ve never had to deal with cross dominance so I can only tell you what I’ve heard to try and deal with it. Because we’re all wired different, there is no one solution, you’ll have to figure out what works for you. Here are the choices as I’ve heard them:
1) tilt or rotate your head to align your left eye to the sights.
2) if using the isosceles stance, simply push the gun over to align with your left eye.
3) close your left eye and use only your right eye.
4) place a piece of tape over your left eye. This allows you to still use both eyes for finding targets but will only allow you to sight with your right eye.
Eye dominance can switch between eyes this seems to be a common problem with shotgun shooters and will typically happen when tired or stressed. I’ve also heard through repeated practice, your eye dominance can shift. So perhaps opt 4 might be your best bet in making a permanent change.
Unfortunately you’re just going to have to figure out what works best for you.
Daryl – I’d recommend against trying to fight your eye dominance. A surprising number of shooters are cross-dominant, and adapting your grip and stance, to put the gun in front of your strong eye, is the way to go. Some people move the gun over so it aligns with the strong eye, and others move their head so that it aligns with the gun in the normal freestyle position.
You guys are ROCK! I stumbled across your show completely by accident (as I usually find things according to my wife) while looking for some Springfield XDM info! I’ve since gone to your YuoTube channel and subscribed. I’ve gone all the way back to Episode 1 to witness the show’s evolution from the start!
I even went and joined IDPA this week (sorry Steve). I found a club about 15 minutes from my house! WooHoo!!! There goes any surplus income I thought I’d have!!
Keep up the great work!
Hey guys, just wanted to say y’all have a really helpful program here, I just decided to get into competitive shooting in the last month and shot my first match today. Having found your episodes I was able to be much more prepared than I would have been otherwise and actually didn’t do half bad, now I just need to smooth it all up by competing more often. I did fall into the category of a previous comment though, I scored very well and then when the results were posted I was lower than I expected to be because I took too long. I’ve always been a rifle shooter so I focused on accuracy first and foremost, I guess I need to start working on some speed drills, any tips on things that can help boost speed?
Hi, quick question. Is the Glock 34 allowed in IDPA.Thanks,Rex.
Hi guys I love the show. But what i really like is how you are covering the shotgun sports. There are so few podcast that cover shotgun shooting and i am glad there is one now.
Hi David…thanks for the comments and your interest in the shotgun sports. We hope to bring you more shotgun featured episodes in the future…including a Skeet episode which you’ll be seeing in the next couple of weeks.
Hey guys love the show, what do you think of the springfield range officer for a begining shooter? is it really competition ready or do you need to do alot of tweaking to make it work well.
love the show and would love to see some three gun episodes
Dave – The Range Officer is a great starting place for a competition gun. It has the fitting of the higher-end TRP, but without a lot of the features that shooters prefer on their competition guns. Buy it, shoot it for a while, and you’ll have your own insight into what you want to add, or subtract, so the gun fits you and your needs. It shouldn’t need any tweaking to get it to run, but you’ll probably decide you want to make some changes to the trigger, sights, grips, etc.
First off, just wanted to say thanks for all the great videos! This is absolutely the best podcast/youtube channel for shooters/enthusiasts. Really appreciate your perspectives/opinions on so many different topics (Rick, Steve, Caleb). Not only educational, but also really entertaining – in that it feels like you’re just sitting in on a friendly conversation. I think you guys have a lot of credibility because you’re actually out there participating/competing on your own and have “come up the ranks” like most of aspire to.
Would love to see more episodes about how you improved your shooting skills, what paths you took (individually), and how you progressed (e.g. started out shooting this, weekly range trips, then local matches, clubs, then traveling to matches, joined uspsa, nra, gssf, etc…).
I gotta say that I’m now hooked on USPSA, steel, etc… largely due to watching your episodes and going out and trying it locally (joined a local club, participating more, etc..).
Thanks guys and keep up the great work!
Just watched your latest video on using cover. Your fault line ran from the edge of the target, however if I remember correctly, the article in the tac journal ran from the head of the target. This makes more sense, because the eyes of the threat target or head is what needs to see you, not their shoulder.(I hope I explained that well enough) Also, it may have been the camera angle, but it looked like your fault line was slightly crooked and would have given the shooter a few more inches if it were straight. One more point is that the SO standing where you recommended would not be able to still see the gun and muzzle, because he is standing behind the shooter. I think the second SO should be the one positioning themselves to make that call, since the primary function of the SO is to watch the gun and trigger finger of the shooter. I really enjoy your videos, keep up the great work.
Daniel – Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments. The episodes are intened to create discussion. There are at least three opinions concerning where the fault line, and camera, should have been located, and there is merit in all of them. Then, there’s the matter of what part of the target should be referenced when making the call? Not until a shooter is exposed to the center of a threat, are they exposed? Some would conclude, “Don’t worry about it.”
I remember watching an episode awhile back were you discuss aging eyes and options competitors have, like surgery versus contacts with different prescriptions in them. I have come back and have been searching but can not figure out which episode it was. Would you please point me to the correct episode? Thank you and I love your show. (Minus all the shotgun stuff)
Bill – I believe the episode that featured the most specific info about eyes, and how to deal with deteriorating vision, is the “Bonus Episode” from February of last year. I suspect there was also discussion on the topic in the episodes dealing with sights and sighting.
Great show on Trap! I really liked the safety aspects you covered as well. Every trap novice should wath this! Can I ask what kind of camera you used on your visor, some neat video Thanks, Randy in the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia.
Hi guys, recently discovered your guys YouTube channel and particularly enjoyed episodes115 & 116 on the O/U cleaning. I’ve recently purchased a Beretta Silver Pigeon 1 12 gauge and would like to know to what degree it needs to be cleaned and lubed before I take it out for the very first time?
Thanks and regards,
Hi Clayton…for a first time cleaning…I would recommend following the suggestions in the videos about taking the stock off and cleaning the internal lock works as we detailed…and then do the same every year if you shoot the gun quite a bit.
Thanks Steve, will do.
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